Tomato frog

This profile covers Dyscophus guineti, not D. antongilii. Juvenile colours and shared tomato-frog names can obscure the distinction.

Do not substitute D. antongilii identity or trade assumptions for the actual animal.

Plan a largely ground-dwelling observation frog, with a secure escape-resistant enclosure and individual feeding records.

Arrange dependable holiday care and keep money available for food, replacement equipment and appropriate veterinary help. Test the habitat before the animal arrives.

Wildform proposes 60 × 45 × 45 cm or larger for one adult, with soft burrowable substrate, cover and a stable shallow soaking dish with an easy exit.

Measure usable internal space after substrate, guards and furnishings. Check ventilation, cable holes and access against the smallest occupant. Fix heavy furnishings independently of loose substrate.

The breeder favours low-to-mid 20s Celsius. Measure at the frog’s substrate level; avoid a concentrated hot reptile basking spot.

Record the warm and cool locations, overnight minimum and daytime maximum. Air, surface and substrate readings are different measurements. Any added heater needs compatible thermostatic control and safe separation from the animal; assess summer cooling as well as winter heating.

Use a normal daytime cycle with shade and a dark night. Any low-level UVB plan needs assessment alongside supplementation.

Keep the night dark and provide retreat from daytime light. Lamp percentage, electrical wattage and a product name cannot establish the exposure reaching an animal. Check the finished installation after changes to mesh, branches or lamp position.

Agree the UV plan for the individual installation.

The breeder describes 50–70% air humidity, moist burrowing substrate and clean soaking water. Avoid waterlogging, sharp décor and deep inaccessible water.

Inspect the occupied refuge and substrate as well as the air reading. Adjust water provision and ventilation together, and clean contaminated drinking surfaces. A single humidity number cannot describe every microclimate.

Offer varied suitably small cultured insects; a broad body does not mean a large mouth. Match prey and meal frequency to growth and condition.

Record what is actually eaten and follow changes in growth and body condition. Food size, life stage and the full diet matter. Supplement products require an individual plan; do not combine calcium, vitamin D and multivitamins by guesswork.

Agree supplements and feeding for the current life stage.

Keep singly for this plan and minimise handling. Allow voluntary burrowing and avoid repeatedly digging the frog up.

Make necessary maintenance predictable and allow voluntary retreat. Prepare a secure transfer container before essential moves. Observation should not repeatedly interrupt feeding, rest or moulting.

Check body condition, skin and movement. Abnormal swelling, skin injury or persistent feeding decline needs an amphibian vet.

Keep dated observations of appetite, activity and condition. A sudden decline, injury, abnormal breathing or repeated failed moults needs appropriate professional assessment. This guide does not provide a diagnosis or medicine dose.

Keep the scientific name and captive-bred origin on the record.

Ask for a dated source record, scientific identity, life stage and established care history. Keep new arrivals and their equipment separate while an appropriate quarantine plan is agreed. Check current official rules for the exact animal, route and transaction before importing or buying; this page does not establish legal clearance. Never release animals or viable eggs outdoors.

Replace fouled water and remove uneaten insects without excavating the frog. Review substrate condition and compare body condition with food records. Keep a dated record of measurements and observations, and revisit the full advice when conditions or life stage change.