Bearded dragon

This profile is for Pogona vitticeps, the central or inland bearded dragon. It is an Australian lizard active during the day, using basking, climbing, digging and sheltered resting places. A desert origin does not mean constant heat. Head-bobbing, arm movements and beard colour have several possible meanings; one display cannot tell you whether the animal is healthy or comfortable.

Think in terms of around a decade of care, with continuing food, lighting and vet costs. Adult length varies, often around 40–60 cm including the tail. Plan for your actual dragon rather than treating a small size estimate as a ceiling. Keep one animal to avoid competition and mating pressure.

Start with an enclosure of at least 120 × 60 × 60 cm and allow more usable room for a large, active adult. Add secure climbing and basking surfaces, covered retreats and room to dig. Support heavy furnishings independently of loose substrate. Plain paper can help during quarantine; avoid gravel, dusty bedding and calcium sand sold as safe to eat.

RSPCA gives a local basking zone around 38–42°C, cool air around 22–26°C and nights around 20–22°C. Older care sheets use lower basking figures, so check measurement locations before comparing them. Use a broad warmed area, guarded heaters and compatible thermostatic control. Check air at dragon height and the basking surface separately. Your dragon must be able to leave the heat.

Provide bright daytime light, about 12 hours of light-dark cycling and reptile UVB. RSPCA recommends UVI 3–5 at basking exposure, falling to zero in shade. UVI means UV Index measured at the animal’s back height. Check reachable branches, mesh and lamp clearance. Visible light does not prove that an ageing tube still supplies enough UV; follow output checks and replacement instructions.

Provide accessible clean water in a stable shallow bowl with safe entry and exit. Keep exposed surfaces generally dry and ventilated, while allowing suitable sheltered conditions. Published background humidity ranges differ, so check the enclosure and animal before chasing one gauge value. Persistent dampness or signs of dehydration need investigation.

Offer varied safe leafy greens and appropriately sized cultured insects. Young growing dragons need insect meals more often; adults need a mainly plant-based diet with measured insect portions. Gut-load feeders and coordinate calcium and vitamins with the diet and UV setup. Avoid wild insects, routine mammalian prey and treat-heavy menus. Remove wilted greens and uneaten insects, and follow weight and condition rather than appetite alone.

Support the chest, belly and limbs during calm, brief handling close to a safe surface. Stop if your dragon keeps struggling or trying to escape. Leave an ill or shedding animal undisturbed. Daily opportunities to bask, explore, climb and hide inside the enclosure are essential; being held is not a substitute.

Weakness, jaw or limb changes, wounds, abnormal breathing, persistent appetite loss or falling weight need a reptile vet. Take heat, UV, diet and supplement records to the appointment. Females can develop eggs and need private digging space; straining, swelling or weakness need prompt help. Seasonal slowing, called brumation, must not be assumed to explain an unwell animal. Do not force-feed or induce cooling without a plan.

Ask for documented captive origin and the animal’s feeding and health history. Keep the scientific name and seller records. Check current requirements before importing, and arrange a reptile vet and holiday keeper before purchase. Wash hands after handling or cleaning and keep enclosure tools separate from food preparation.

Run the fully furnished enclosure before arrival and check warm surfaces, air temperatures, cool retreats and UV exposure. Each day, observe your dragon and check water, food and controls. Remove waste, inspect heater guards and probe positions, and review the diet as growth slows. Keep a dated record so changes are easier to spot.